Clarity, Color, Confidence—Your Guide to Buying Emeralds Right.

Key Factors of a Quality Emerald Jewelry Setting

Emeralds are among the most prized and historic gemstones, valued for their lush green color and timeless appeal. However, not all emerald jewelry is created equal. Whether you're purchasing a meaningful gift or treating yourself, understanding how to evaluate the quality of a finished jewelry piece is essential. A well-crafted setting not only enhances the beauty of the gemstone but also ensures durability and long-term wear. There are six to seven key features to examine when assessing the quality of an Emerald jewelry setting:

What to Ask

Does the metal hold the gems securely?

Is the metal holding the stone durable enough to survive wear over time?

What is the quality of the craftsmanship?

Are there any rough areas that could catch on clothing?

Are any of the gems chipped or crooked?

Are the gems level and flat or do they overlap?

Are the gems well-matched? – This question only applies if there are multiple gems of the same color, which is not always the case in a piece of jewelry.

Soldering

Soldering is the process of joining different metal components using a filler metal—called solder—which has a lower melting point than the metals being joined. Precious metal jewelry is often constructed with different jewelry manufacturing methods such as die striking, casting, electroforming, or hand fabrication.

When executed properly, solder joints should be virtually invisible, seamlessly blending into the design. However, poor soldering can result in visible seams, excess solder buildup, or even cracks at the joints. These flaws are not only unsightly but can compromise the integrity of the piece.

Poorly soldered jewelry is especially vulnerable to damage from ultrasonic cleaners, which can cause weak joints to fail. Additionally, low-quality solder may tarnish or discolor over time, affecting both the appearance and longevity of the piece.

When examining a jewelry setting, inspect all solder points closely to ensure clean, secure, and unobtrusive joins.

Metal Porosity

Like many materials, metal can be porous—an issue that affects both the strength and appearance of jewelry. Porosity refers to tiny holes or pits in the metal, which can occur as a result of improper casting or crafting techniques. It weakens the structure of the piece and can lead to cracks or breakage over time.

In addition, exposure to harsh household chemicals—particularly bleach and other cleaners—can exacerbate or even create pitting in jewelry metals. This is especially true for alloys, which make up the majority of fine jewelry materials.

When inspecting a piece, look closely for small pits, cracks, or rough textures on the surface, especially in less visible or hard-to-reach areas where defects may be hidden. Porosity is not just a cosmetic flaw—it’s a red flag for compromised durability.

Finish

Fine jewelry is polished to shine on the back as well as the front of the piece, while mass produced jewelry lacks this quality. Any good jewelry piece should have no evidence of tool marks, no jagged edges, should not scratch easily or catch on clothing.

Type of Construction

Is the jewelry hollow, or solid? Hollow pieces can appear chunky, but be light, and have a lower cost than a solid piece. Electroplating is one example of a hollow jewelry technique. The main caveat of this technique is that hollow pieces can dent easily and be difficult to repair. In other words, this is not a good type of jewelry to be worn daily.

Metal Selection for Emeralds

Choosing the right metal for emerald jewelry involves balancing durability, aesthetic appeal, and personal preference. The most commonly used metals are silver, gold (14K or 18K), and platinum, each offering unique benefits:

Silver is affordable and easy to work with, but it tarnishes over time and is less durable.

Gold (especially 14K or 18K) is more resistant to tarnish and comes in a variety of colors—yellow, white, and rose—allowing for customization. It's a popular choice for bringing out the rich green hues in emeralds.

Platinum is the most durable and hypoallergenic of the three, offering a sleek, white finish that enhances the bluish tones in emeralds.

Other metals, such as titanium, are highly durable and lightweight, but they're rarely used in fine jewelry due to the technical difficulty of working with them. Advances in alloy development and increasing regulation of toxic materials have also expanded the range of available metal options in recent years.

Beyond durability, the metal color you choose plays a major role in how your emerald appears:

Yellow gold tends to highlight warmer undertones in emeralds and can enhance their overall richness and depth.

White metals like silver, white gold, and platinum accentuate cooler, bluish tones—often considered the most desirable and valuable in emeralds.

Ultimately, your choice of metal should complement the emerald’s color and reflect your personal style. Since fine emerald jewelry can last for generations, selecting a metal that you’ll continue to love over time is just as important as its technical attributes.

Ask About Treatments

Nearly all emeralds are treated to improve clarity.

• Oiling with natural cedar oil is traditional and acceptable

• Ask for disclosure of any treatment, especially if polymers or dyes are used (less stable)

• Reputable sellers should be transparent

Understand Care and Maintenance

Emeralds are more delicate than diamonds and need special care.

• Avoid ultrasonic or steam cleaners

• Clean gently with lukewarm water and mild soap

• Store separately to prevent scratches

Insist on Certification

Request a gemstone certificate from a recognized lab (e.g., GIA, AGL, IGI).

• Confirms the emerald is natural (not synthetic)

• Discloses origin (Colombian emeralds are highly prized)

• Notes the type and extent of treatment